A detailed step-by-step tutorial teaching you How to Build a Huge Chalkboard for affordable! This is perfect for a kids playroom, kitchen, laundry room, mud room or main family room!
After I finished my bench (you can see the tutorial here) I was so excited with how much it freshened up our entry that I wanted to make a new Welcome sign. I aim for our house to be a place where people feel welcome and leave feeling better than they did when they came. I searched for the perfect saying and loved this one.
To make this distressed sign I glued two scraps of 1×6 together. I placed it on a trash bag on something flat. Then I used Gorilla Wood Glue and put it on both sides of the wood edge I’m gluing and then pushed them together. I made sure the top doesn’t have glue sticking out, and if it does I wiped it off. I didn’t worry about the glue if its pooling out onto the trash bag because that is the back. Let it dry for 24 hours.
Then I did a coat of paint in black and let it dry. Next I added a layer of Milk Paint and let it dry for 12 hours. You can use any kind of paint for the top coat, I just like the texture and crackles of Milk paint. Then sand it like crazy!
I prefer a hand sander to make it go faster and to get a really good distressed look. I cut cut my words out on my Cricut machine. The fonts I used are Century for Welcome and Muncie for Rest, Relax, Refresh. I weeded the vinyl in reverse and then pieced the silhouette of the words right onto my sign creating a stencil.
I find its easier to only work a few letters at a time, otherwise they stick to each other.
I mixed up a couple of different colors of acrylic paints to create the perfect shade of navy I wanted. Then I carefully painted the inside of the letters.
I did two coats to make sure I had a really solid shade of navy. When the paint was dry I very carefully pulled off the vinyl.
After letting it dry completely I went at my sign again with my hand sanders. This time you don’t have to sand so much, the words will distress really fast.
You can either use a sawtooth hanger to hang it or use a drill to make holes in the corners. I used rope to hang mine.
Check it out! We finally got rid of our old and falling apart bench! Lets be honest, our last bench was more for looks because we were all afraid to sit on it!
Now our porch is finally a comfortable place to hang out just in time for spring! I followed Ana White’s Park Bench plans and made a few diversions along the way. They were easy to follow and this bench came together really fast. We started building it about 5:00 and were done within a few hours with my husband and I working together.
I will give you a run through on how we did it but Ana White has really good instructions and measurements so be sure to check her tutorial out. First we built the main seat.
Then we added the front and back legs.
This is the one spot I would suggest to divert from Ana’s plans. You are suppose to put the arms on here, but when we went to put the planks on later they were in the way.
We ended up unscrewed them so we could more easily put the bench planks on. Instead I would jump right to attaching the bottom support beam, the back, and the planks and add the arms at the end.
Next put the back on.
To add the planks, first screw in the front plank and the back plank right up against the 2×4’s. Then we measured how much space was left between the boards and then spaced the other two boards evenly.
Then it was just time to finish it. I used my hand sander to give it a nice smooth finish and to make sure that the edges were not too sharp. I used the color Sparrow by Behr for my paint. It was a little lighter than I had hoped.
The wind blows pretty hard here in my small town, but I’ve always wanted pillows on my bench. So I decided to find a way to make it work. I cut a long shoestring in half and sewed the middle of the shoelace to the middle of the back an outdoor pillow. Now it is just as simple as tying them onto the bench!
Let the summertime porch parties begin!
I love the industrial pipe shelving that is so popular right now!
It is so versatile and easy to customize to your space and you can be super creative. Here are some ideas to get your creativity flowing if you are thinking of creating your own pipe shelving.
I have a love and obsession with flavored oils and vinegars. But the bottles can get a little cluttered. When we added our backslash and new appliances I really wanted the bottles to be available, organized, and showcased.
It was super easy to build! All you need is 1×4’s and 1×2’s. The dimensions for our shelf was 33.5 inches long and about 13 inches tall. For that size shelf will need 10 feet of 1×4 and 7.5 feet of 1×2’s. I am going to give you all the measurements for our shelf but make sure you measure for your own space before you make your cuts.
Essentially each of the 1×4 will be doubled up. You can get rough idea here of how you will be building it. A finished nail gun is really helpful here!
We cut two 1×4’s each 33.5 inches long. Then we cut four 1×4 pieces 11.5 inches. We also cut our 1×2 into two – 33.5 inch lengths and two pieces 11.5 inches.
First nail one of the top 1×4’s into the side supports.
Once you have that secure, add the second piece and secure that piece.
Now you need to add the 1×2’s to finish it off. First nail one over the entire front. Be sure to secure it to both the top and bottom pieces behind.
Then flip it over and do the same thing to the back. You do this so it will go flush against the wall even though the back-splash will be in the way. You can see that here:
Then attach the 1×2’s to the front sides.
I filled the holes with stainable wood filler and sanded it down smooth. I stained it with Minwax Stain in Dark Walnut and sealed it with Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish to give it a nice finish and to protect it .
I love the way it looks and I love having all my oils so close.
I also keep my salt and my Italian seasoning mix where they are handy!
Most of those bottles are super sentimental to me. They make me happy to see them all the time!
I have had a lot of experience with paint colors…I’ve painted my kitchen 4 times! I did tons of research before I painted each color and I was sure I had found the perfect shade. Yet when I painted them they looked too blue or too taupe. Obviously light plays a huge part in how the color looks on your wall. I found it super helpful though to compare the colors to each other. In my search for the perfect shade these colors seemed to be some of the most popular Benjamin Moore greige colors. Wickham Gray obviously runs more blue and moonshine tends to run a little greenish. The classic grey looked very cement like on my walls and the Balboa mist was also very cool.
For me the perfect color on my walls was Edgecomb Gray. Its like a darker version of white. Its perfect! My house has a ton of light though so that helps. I have a friend who has a darker house with less light and on her walls it looks more yellowish/brown. So for a house with less natural light Balboa Mist and Classic Gray might be the perfect choice.
Hopefully this will help you if you are looking at paint colors for your home. What is your favorite paint color? I’m always on the hunt for a new colors!
Today I’m sharing one of my favorite areas in our new house (so far) – the Mudroom! I’ve got 2 little boys and I knew that I needed a good area for their coats, backpacks, shoes, etc! We moved just 15 minutes away from an Ikea, so naturally that was the first place I headed!
Here’s what I ended up using to put together the Mudroom:
3 Bygel Rail’s – $2.99 each ($8.97)
Spontan Magnet Board – $12.99
Spontan Magnets – $2.99
2 packs of Grundtal S-Hooks – $2.99 each ($5.98)
Grundtal Flatware Caddy – $9.99
Bygel Wire Basket – $2.99
Hemnes Shoe Cabinet – $99.99
Dignitet Curtain Wire – $12.99
Riktig Curtain Hook w/ Clips – $2.99
12×36 Frame (Free – already had it)
Weekly Calendar Printable (Free Printable)
Mudroom Rustic Fence Post Sign (Tutorial)
To start, I knew I needed a backpack and jacket area! So, I purchased 3 of the Bygel Rails and purchased S-Hooks! All their backpacks and jackets hang on the two bars and then on the upper bar I used it to add a little greenery in the Flatware Caddy and I use the Bygel Wire Basket to put my keys in and coupons, etc!
I purchased the Spontan Magnet Board and Magnets to have a place to put the reading charts, sight words and the boys take home reading books! The cute arrow I purchased Unfinished from 302WoodWorks Etsy Store and then I stained it.
Now, to the Shoe Wall! The actually room is just a small square area. So, I didn’t have an area to do a built in bench or anything like that. So, when I saw Ikea’s Hemnes Shoe Cabinet I was sold! It’s so thin and attaches easily to the wall! It was originally white, but I painted it with Clark & Kensington Rocky Coast. I really love the paint color! Then above the shoe cabinet I hung up Dignitet Curtain Wire and printed some of my favorite Instagram pictures and hung them up!
Above the windows I made this Rustic Fence Post Mudroom sign that I made! You can view the full tutorial here!
To finish off the Mudroom, I hung my trusty 12×36 Weekly Calendar! I’ve had this calendar for a while and love it! It helps to make sure that my husband and kids know what’s going on each day! You can download a copy of the Free Printable HERE!
Thanks for taking the time to check out my fun DIY IKEA Mudroom! Love you all! xoxo!
Can I get a halleluiah! I have wanted a produce stand at the end of my counter for years! I have no idea why its taken us so long to build but I am so glad we finally made time for it!
And it was so cheap and only took a couple hours to throw together. Our stand is approximately 18 inches wide, 9 inches wide, and 32 inches tall. For that size stand you will need:
2- 1×6 10 foot long boards
1- 1×4 8 foot long board
18 inches of 2×4
First you need to cut your wood and create the boxes. This is super easy. Each box was made with three 18 inch long pieces as well as two 7 inch pieces.
To make all 3 boxes you need to cut your 1×6 boards into nine 18 inch pieces and six 7 inch pieces.
It would be a cinch to put these boxes together if you have a finish nail gun. Our compressor is out so I we had to do it by hand. With 1×6’s you have to be very careful to not split the wood. So first we drilled little holes.
Then we nailed the box together.
When your boxes are built you need to cut your side supports. We wanted our entire stand to be 32 inches tall. So we cut 2 pieces 32 inches long. Next we had to figure out how much we wanted our boxes to tilt.
We decided on 30 degrees and cut the top of each side to 30 degrees.
For the base supports we cut two 9 inch pieces of 2×4 and cut a 45 degree angle off of each side to make the stand.
I forgot to take a picture here but we centered and screwed each side piece into the bottom. We just placed the sidepiece on the outside of the bottom supports and screwed them in. You can see how we did it in this picture of the finished box. Be sure to drill before you screw into the 1×4’s because you don’t want them to split!
Next we attached the top box to the sides. We used 2 screws to make sure they wouldn’t turn. Make sure to drill first!
Then we added the bottom box so it was about a half inch from the base.
When that box was secure we added the middle box half way in between the top and bottom box. Then it was a little sanding and painting! I used Deco Art Americana Chalky Finish Paint in Relic to paint my stand and roughed the edges up with sandpaper.
I am in love! It really finishes off the counter and I especially love when you can create storage that is stylish! So grab some wood and get building. It only took us 4 hours and that included all of the paint time!
I have been dreaming of shelves above my buffet for awhile now. When I saw this image from Restoration Hardware, I knew they were perfect! I just needed to make a larger version.
I am in love with how they turned out. Each shelf is 4 feet long.
This is not a super cheap DIY project. The cost of a 4 foot shelf and 3 shelf brackets at Restoration Hardware is $380 before shipping. For all of my supplies I came in right under $200. It works out to be a quarter of the cost since I built two shelves. Much more reasonable! Here is what you need to make them:
- 8 foot long 2×10 board (try to pick a straight one)
- 6 – 10 inch 3/4″ galvanized pipe
- 6 – 3/4″ floor flanges
- 6 – 3/4″ pipe caps
- Rust-Oleum Textured Spray
- Rust-Oleum Protective Enamel Spray Paint Black Flat
- Minwax Special Walnut Wood Stain
- Toggle blots and screws
The handy guys at Home Depot cut the wood in half for me so I had two perfect 4 foot shelves. Then comes the labor intensive part. Get ready for some sanding.
I wanted the wood to look older so I had to sand the edges down- a lot! I tried to do it a little uneven too so it looked naturally worn. I also smoothed the top and bottom down so they were smooth to the touch.
Next came the staining. I used the special walnut because its a very neutral wood color, not too red or too yellow.
For the pipes, I first sprayed them with the textured spray paint. It doesn’t matter what color you use because you are just going to spray over them with the flat black. I also sprayed them fully assembled so I could get them on tight and not have the textured spray paint interfere with the pipe threads.
I used a paper plate so that I could spray the screws too.
Then it was time to install. We used a huge level and made sure we got them very straight and perfectly spaced.
We installed them into the wall with toggle bolts since the shelves would be holding a lot of weight.
I didn’t use any polyurethane on the shelves to keep them as natural looking as possible. Once you have your pipes up you simply lay the wood over the pipes and they stay in place and are remarkably sturdy.
The pipes have a great iron look to them.
You can see the wood has imperfections and I love them!
The overall look is great. Now I just have to decide what color to paint my buffet!
Recently we’ve overhauled the main part of our house! We had an unfortunate leak from our dishwasher that required us to replace floors and somehow that turned into also painting, new appliances, new carpet and a new tile backsplash! The tile backsplash added SO much charm and style to our kitchen and it was fairly inexpensive! Here are 5 Tips to Installing a Tile Backplash that I learned along the way!
1.) SHOP AROUND FOR YOUR TILE
Don’t assume that your local hardware store has the best price! I was shocked to find that many websites were much better priced! They often times are discontinuing a line and will have savings of 50% or more! Also, in your local stores, be sure and check the discount areas. They will sell “leftover” amounts for discounted as well. And, depending on your kitchen backsplash size, they may work!
2.) MAKE A PLAN
We didn’t really know what we were doing, but I wish I had take more time to plan it all out. As a major fan of DIY I am constantly trying to measure things by myself. There is nothing more frustrating that trying to hold a long tape measure straight while being 20 feet away! I used the Bosch GLM 15 laser measure to get super easy and accurate readings all by myself.
It’s simple – you just have to stand in one spot and point the laser to the space you want to get your measurement!
3.) ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF TILE YOU NEED
Measure the length and width of the backsplash area. Determine the square footage by multiplying the length times the width. Wall tiles are typically available in 4 1/4 inch to 6 inch squares. So, you’ll want to have an idea of what back splash you are wanting, before trying to determine how much tile you’ll need.
4.) PREPARE THE WALLS
Before starting, wash all the walls with warm soapy water. Allow them to dry completly. Make sure the wall is firm enough to support the tile. If it’s at all wet, it may not be able to support the tile and it will rip the wall surface off.
5.) WHEN APPLYING GROUT, WORK ON A 45 DEGREE ANGLE
We learned this the hard way. When applying and cleaning the grout, work on a 45 degree angle. We pulled some grout out when cleaning and had to go back and fix those areas.
We found a great tutorial over at This Old House that may be of help too!